Papeete Marketplace — revisited

Looking back as a young lady in my early twenties and just out of college, I had the privilege of visiting Papeete on a regular basis. The Seattle Pan Am base had Tahiti and Auckland trips every winter and I was eager to sign up. Those early flying days were pretty ideallic to say the least. We laid over at the gorgeous Intercontinental Hotel Tahara built on a hillside overlooking the ocean. Each room had a huge deck overhanging the next level with cascading bougainvillea all the way down the hillside. A beautiful swimming pool and a black sand beach down at the shore. Its a wonder we ever left the hotel but often “Le Truck” (fun open-aired colorfully decorated trucks with polynesian music blarring) would take us into town to the marketplace for shopping and  sightseeing. At that time it was a much smaller market but none the less colorful.

 Arriving back in Papeete by boat was an eye opening experience to see all the changes over the past 40 years. We soon sadly learned the Tahara Intercontinental Hotel was now defunct and the new Intercontinental (also very nice) was just past the airport.  No more “Le Trucks” and a much much larger city with freeways and traffic. I didn't expect to recognize very much as 40 years is a long time.

While we were docked at the Papeete City Marina everything was conveniently located and within easy walking distance. With a wide variety of shops, restaurants, museums, cathedrals, parks and promenades along the shore to keep us occupied.  The Marketplace has been rebuilt numerous times over the years and was most recently rebuilt in 1984. It is still the central focal point of the city and a wonderful gathering place with food stalls, bakery, ice cream parlor, and arts and crafts on the first floor.  The second floor has a restaurant and more shops. 

Today's Papeete Market

Fortunately, I managed to escape from some boat projects on Sunday morning for the Local Market Day when all the locals come in with their produce. It starts at 5 am but if you arrive by 7am you still have a good chance of finding everything you are looking for.  So I arrived at 7am, a more civilized time, and started shopping for much needed fresh fruit and vegetables. 

One of my main objectives was to find some honey or “miel” in french.  They don’t import honey from other countries but raise it within French Polynesia. We found some in Fatu Hiva but they wanted $30 for a small quantity so we decided to keep looking. I finally found a young lady selling some from the Marquesas for $20.  I realized if I wanted to make my granola I would have to splurge!

Little bottles of "teddy bear like" honey cost aproximately $20

The Tahitians have a beautiful way of displaying the flowers of the island. From lovely scented lai’s, to colorful crown arrangements worn for special occasions by the women, as well as lovely table arrangements. 

One of my first observations was a long line for a special marinated fish, tuna I believe.  Seafood is the staple of the Polynesian menu.  I also found several stalls of BBQ pork and chicken. The Chinese use a Hoison Sauce to marinate the meat and call it “char su”. Added to rice and you have a yummy dish.

I would come across a fruit, vegetable or root that I wasn’t familiar with. Always eager to learn something new I would try and ask in my broken french how it is used and prepared. I try not to get too outside my familiar zone as I have lots of foreign ingredients I can’t translate and they sit in the cupboard unused just taking up space.

Total purchase $45 including honey, BBQ pork & chicken, bananas, 5 ears of corn, long green beans, lettuce, cabbage, green onions, bok choy, tomatoes, and a papaya.

The whole experience was a colorful canopy of exotic foods, people, and music all blended in harmony.  The Polynesians along with the French seem to have found a happy balance in their lives.