We awoke at 5:00 am this morning after a restless night worrying about the voyage ahead. We were going to sail to the rarely visited island of Maupiti, about 27 miles northwest of Bora Bora. There is a reason Maupiti is rarely visited - its entrance. As I mentioned in an earlier blog, you read other sailor's articles about the pass to Maupiti and you develop a healthy respect for the risks involved. "Pass Onoiau has a poor reputation because in rough condition it is hazardous to enter and numerous vessels have come to grief here." Huge breaking surf guards the east and west sides of the pass and the outgoing current can reach up to 9 knots. This pass should only be attempted in ideal conditions. And so on.
So the bottom line is you attempt this pass only in near perfect conditions, which means a light northeasterly wind, a southern swell below five feet, and clear visibility. And today looked like one of those days.
We had already checked out of French Polynesia, so one way or the other we had to leave today. We had hoped for a quick getaway, but when we went to undo the mooring lines, we found them tightly wound in a candy cane wrap that took us about 20 minutes to untangle.
Next, I looked at our navigation computer and saw a 1,000 foot cruise ship, The Regency of the Seas, was about to enter the narrow Bora Bora pass -- just as we would be exiting. A short radio call to the Regency got things sorted out and we passed them port to port about 1,000 ft. away just outside the pass. It was like a lit-up floating city passing us in the early morning hours.
The good news was we had very good weather conditions. The wind was less than 2 knots so we ended up motor sailing for about two hours, at which point the wind filled in to around 9 knots that made for a pleasant downwind sail. Our concern was a fairly large, very long period swell coming from the southeast. We wondered how this would affect the entrance at Maupiti.
After five hours of sailing we approached the southeast point of Maupiti with its towering mountain in the background. We saw two sailboats about two miles ahead and through our powerful binoculars we could see their masts heading into the entrance, so we at least knew it was possible to enter today (or they were charter boats whose captain thought "it's not my boat").
As we got closer, however, all we could see was a powerful line of continuous breaking surf with huge plumes of spray drifting out in the northwest wind. According to friends who had done the pass earlier in the year, you had to have a lot of trust as you traverse what seems like a continual line of surf until a break appears -- then you square the boat up and make a run for it.
Through the breaking surf and boiling water you suddenly see two large orange and white range markers, which you line up like a gun sight, keeping them inline puts you on the right inbound course. Things are happening fast now, so not a lot of time to think, more just quick reactions trying to keep the boat lined up on the two range markers as the current throws us to the right and then the left. The view was spectacular, but also frightening. On our left the breakers were pounding on the reef, and only 75 ft to our right the reef bared itself with jagged coral outcroppings as the surf broke across it.
Even with our powerful 62 hp. turbocharged Yanmar diesel, we were still only doing 2.4 knots against the 4 knot out bound current. By entering at noon when it's high tide we had the advantage of a lesser current, but we were still getting spun around like those teacup rides at the State Fair. Our first range quickly runs out and we turn about 30 degrees right and pick up a second range. I glance down at the depth sounder which now says 5 ft., then 8 ft., then 56 ft., realizing that the water is so turbulent and full of bubbles that the depth sounder can't maintain accurate readings. We're not aground so I figure that's good enough for me, as I have my hands full with steering and navigating.
Now leaving the second set of red/green navigational poles, things begin to slowly taper down to just a frightening level. The speed creeps up to 2.7 ("We're hauling now.") and the pass begins to widen a bit. As we get further inside we decide to take the main sail down since we're head to wind and there's not much space to maneuver ahead.
The rest of the passage was somewhat anti climatic was we followed a very well marked path of red/green poles in about 30 ft. of water. They describe Maupiti as a "better" Bora Bora, with it's central towering peak, verdant green vegetation, and azure blue lagoon. Only 700 people live on Maupiti, not even big enough to even have their own policeman. But there's no need. Maupiti is like returning to the Bora Bora of fifty years ago, where most residents speak only Tahitian (and French only when the have to) and enjoy as near an idyllic life as exists in the world.
We are now anchored in 16 feet of water in the middle of the lagoon. A gentle 6-knot breeze wafts over the boat, and the beautiful, melodic sounds of a Tahitian choir practicing for tomorrow's church service drifts out over the water.
We will spend about a week here waiting for the westerly trade winds to get established again so we can enjoy 15-knot winds for our long passage to Palmerston Island in the Cook Islands. We think it's going to be a great week of snorkeling, SUP'ing, hiking, and relaxing on the boat just reading. Sounds good to us.
So the bottom line is you attempt this pass only in near perfect conditions, which means a light northeasterly wind, a southern swell below five feet, and clear visibility. And today looked like one of those days.
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| Leaving Bora Bora was difficult for us as it was such a beautiful and idyllic place. |
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| We talked with The Regency of the Seas and agreed to pass port-to-port near the pass. |
The good news was we had very good weather conditions. The wind was less than 2 knots so we ended up motor sailing for about two hours, at which point the wind filled in to around 9 knots that made for a pleasant downwind sail. Our concern was a fairly large, very long period swell coming from the southeast. We wondered how this would affect the entrance at Maupiti.
 |
| The say Maupiti is Bora Bora thirty years ago. We agree. |
As we got closer, however, all we could see was a powerful line of continuous breaking surf with huge plumes of spray drifting out in the northwest wind. According to friends who had done the pass earlier in the year, you had to have a lot of trust as you traverse what seems like a continual line of surf until a break appears -- then you square the boat up and make a run for it.
Through the breaking surf and boiling water you suddenly see two large orange and white range markers, which you line up like a gun sight, keeping them inline puts you on the right inbound course. Things are happening fast now, so not a lot of time to think, more just quick reactions trying to keep the boat lined up on the two range markers as the current throws us to the right and then the left. The view was spectacular, but also frightening. On our left the breakers were pounding on the reef, and only 75 ft to our right the reef bared itself with jagged coral outcroppings as the surf broke across it.
Even with our powerful 62 hp. turbocharged Yanmar diesel, we were still only doing 2.4 knots against the 4 knot out bound current. By entering at noon when it's high tide we had the advantage of a lesser current, but we were still getting spun around like those teacup rides at the State Fair. Our first range quickly runs out and we turn about 30 degrees right and pick up a second range. I glance down at the depth sounder which now says 5 ft., then 8 ft., then 56 ft., realizing that the water is so turbulent and full of bubbles that the depth sounder can't maintain accurate readings. We're not aground so I figure that's good enough for me, as I have my hands full with steering and navigating.
Now leaving the second set of red/green navigational poles, things begin to slowly taper down to just a frightening level. The speed creeps up to 2.7 ("We're hauling now.") and the pass begins to widen a bit. As we get further inside we decide to take the main sail down since we're head to wind and there's not much space to maneuver ahead.
The rest of the passage was somewhat anti climatic was we followed a very well marked path of red/green poles in about 30 ft. of water. They describe Maupiti as a "better" Bora Bora, with it's central towering peak, verdant green vegetation, and azure blue lagoon. Only 700 people live on Maupiti, not even big enough to even have their own policeman. But there's no need. Maupiti is like returning to the Bora Bora of fifty years ago, where most residents speak only Tahitian (and French only when the have to) and enjoy as near an idyllic life as exists in the world.
 |
| Few sailboats dare to brave the Maupiti Pass, leaving the beautiful quiet lagoon almost to ourselves at times. |
We will spend about a week here waiting for the westerly trade winds to get established again so we can enjoy 15-knot winds for our long passage to Palmerston Island in the Cook Islands. We think it's going to be a great week of snorkeling, SUP'ing, hiking, and relaxing on the boat just reading. Sounds good to us.
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