We had planned on leaving Maupiti on Wednesday when the strong 20-knot southerly winds where supposed to come in, but we were fearful we wouldn't be able to make it out the pass with those southerlies slamming into the narrow opening. We were right. Stepping up our schedule we got the last coat of varnish on the cap rails on Monday, got up early on Tuesday to buy some fresh baguettes (they didn't bake that morning following the Monday holiday)and get supplies for the family we'd stay with on Palmerston Island.
We figured all day Tuesday should be good, but when we approached the pass it was like a Colorado River rapids on a bad day. Large surfing type waves were breaking on both right and left sides of the narrow pass and the outgoing current (hitting the incoming 20-knot winds) stirred up a witch's caldron of frothy water. We were committed at this point and aimed for a narrow opening between the two surf breaks. We immediately got launched straight up in the air on a 12-foot wave, only to be slammed down on the other side before the next 12 footer sent us skyward again. If the engine failed at this point we'd be up on the reef in less than two minutes . . . way too close for comfort. We shot through the gap and were out in the open ocean, but now confronting a steady stream of of six- to eight-foot waves. We breathed a huge sigh of relief, but felt sorry for the boats that didn't leave because they will be stuck in the lagoon for the next week.
We hadn't been open ocean sailing for over six months and the learning curve was apparent. I was up on the fore deck trying to get some lines untangled from our bimini top solar panels when a big wave threw me sideways into the bimini leaving a nice rip in the already thin fabric. We managed to get the main up with a double reef and unfurled our big genoa to it's second reefing point. Even with that little sail up, we were soon sailing at 7 to 8 knots, with occasional surfing to 10.3 knots, not bad for a big, overweight cruising boat.
Life on board is a challenge. Sitting in the cockpit we'd occasionally get dumped by a big wave running up the side of the boat and the 20-knot wind blowing it into the cockpit. That meant having to rinse ourselves and the cushions with fresh water several times a day. Life down below was chaotic since just trying to move from point A to point B was like balancing your self on a log rolling contest. Any mistake in balance meant a body part slamming hard in to something equally hard.
We both got seasick going through the pass while trying to get things squared away; Meryl worse than me since she's down below while I steer. Her entire diet for the day was one soda cracker. And we'd both forgotten to take our seasick pills before leaving the lagoon which didn't help.
We're slowly getting use to the washing machine rolling of the boat and the huge "thumps" of big waves slamming against the hull. We're on a broad reach right now which is why the waves are slamming us, but will hopefully go to an easier broad reach later tonight with the waves more behind us. The good news is our planned five and one-half day trip will now be about three and one-half days, with us arriving in Palmerston sometime Friday morning. We did sail over 180 miles in the last 24 hours, so that's a record for the boat.
Think of us when you go to the stove to get the tea kettle off the boil and picture the stove bouncing up and down, you getting thrown sideways (with a kettle of boiling hot water) and no place to set the cup to pour the water in. Maybe we'll stick to soda crackers tonight.
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We figured all day Tuesday should be good, but when we approached the pass it was like a Colorado River rapids on a bad day. Large surfing type waves were breaking on both right and left sides of the narrow pass and the outgoing current (hitting the incoming 20-knot winds) stirred up a witch's caldron of frothy water. We were committed at this point and aimed for a narrow opening between the two surf breaks. We immediately got launched straight up in the air on a 12-foot wave, only to be slammed down on the other side before the next 12 footer sent us skyward again. If the engine failed at this point we'd be up on the reef in less than two minutes . . . way too close for comfort. We shot through the gap and were out in the open ocean, but now confronting a steady stream of of six- to eight-foot waves. We breathed a huge sigh of relief, but felt sorry for the boats that didn't leave because they will be stuck in the lagoon for the next week.
We hadn't been open ocean sailing for over six months and the learning curve was apparent. I was up on the fore deck trying to get some lines untangled from our bimini top solar panels when a big wave threw me sideways into the bimini leaving a nice rip in the already thin fabric. We managed to get the main up with a double reef and unfurled our big genoa to it's second reefing point. Even with that little sail up, we were soon sailing at 7 to 8 knots, with occasional surfing to 10.3 knots, not bad for a big, overweight cruising boat.
Life on board is a challenge. Sitting in the cockpit we'd occasionally get dumped by a big wave running up the side of the boat and the 20-knot wind blowing it into the cockpit. That meant having to rinse ourselves and the cushions with fresh water several times a day. Life down below was chaotic since just trying to move from point A to point B was like balancing your self on a log rolling contest. Any mistake in balance meant a body part slamming hard in to something equally hard.
We both got seasick going through the pass while trying to get things squared away; Meryl worse than me since she's down below while I steer. Her entire diet for the day was one soda cracker. And we'd both forgotten to take our seasick pills before leaving the lagoon which didn't help.
We're slowly getting use to the washing machine rolling of the boat and the huge "thumps" of big waves slamming against the hull. We're on a broad reach right now which is why the waves are slamming us, but will hopefully go to an easier broad reach later tonight with the waves more behind us. The good news is our planned five and one-half day trip will now be about three and one-half days, with us arriving in Palmerston sometime Friday morning. We did sail over 180 miles in the last 24 hours, so that's a record for the boat.
Think of us when you go to the stove to get the tea kettle off the boil and picture the stove bouncing up and down, you getting thrown sideways (with a kettle of boiling hot water) and no place to set the cup to pour the water in. Maybe we'll stick to soda crackers tonight.
----------
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